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Cymbal types, explained

Cymbals are half the sound of a drum kit and the least understood purchase in it. What each type does, how size and weight change the sound, and how to spend a budget without regret.

Updated June 10, 2026

The cast, in order of importance

Hi-hats

Two cymbals on a pedal-operated stand, and the pair you touch more than everything else combined. Closed, they give the crisp tick that drives most grooves; the pedal adds chicks, splashes, and every shade between closed and open. Standard size is 14 inch, with 13s and 15s as legitimate variations. If you can only buy one good thing, buy good hats.

Ride

The big one, usually 20 to 22 inches, parked over the floor tom. It is for continuous patterns: the ping of each stick stroke, the wash underneath, and the bell for accents. Jazz lives on the ride; rock visits it in choruses. A ride with a clear stick sound and a usable bell is the second purchase that matters.

Crashes

The accent cymbals, typically 16 to 18 inches, for punctuating fills and section changes. One is enough to start; a second at a different size gives you a high and low crash voice.

Effects, later

Splashes (quick, small accents), chinas (trashy, explosive), stacks (dry, clipped). Fun, genuinely useful in some styles, and entirely optional until you know you need one.

How size, weight, and surface change sound

Variable Smaller / thinner Bigger / thicker
Size Higher pitch, faster response, shorter sustain Lower pitch, slower swell, more volume and sustain
Weight Darker, washier, opens up at low volume Brighter, more stick definition, needs and takes more force
Surface More lathing and a brilliant finish lean bright and glassy Heavy hammering and raw or dry finishes lean dark, trashy, complex

This is why "thin" on a modern cymbal is a feature, not a flaw: thin cymbals speak at human volumes. Thick heavy cymbals were built for projection over loud stages and can sound like struck plates in a bedroom.

Reading the market

Four names dominate: Zildjian, Sabian, Meinl, Paiste, with Istanbul Agop, Bosphorus, and others serving the boutique end. Every big brand has the same ladder: an entry brass tier (skip it if you can), a B8-family intermediate tier, and B20 professional lines where the classic sounds live. Two buying truths follow:

  • The used market is exceptional. Cymbals do not wear out, they only crack from abuse. A 20-year-old pro cymbal with clean edges is simply a pro cymbal. Check for cracks (edge and around the bell) and keyholing, then buy with confidence.
  • One pro cymbal beats three budget ones. Budget cymbals are the loudest reminder of their price in any kit. A used pro ride plus used pro hats will outclass a whole new intermediate pack, at similar money.

A sane buying order

  1. Hi-hats: the best 14s you can afford, used pro over new budget.
  2. Ride: a versatile 20 or 21 with stick definition and a bell you like.
  3. A crash, 16 or 18, thin enough to open at your usual volume.
  4. A second crash or an effects piece, only once the first three feel like home.

And listen before you buy when you can. Cymbals vary piece to piece even within a model, and the one that sounds right in a video may not be the one in the box. This is the one drum purchase where the in-store gong show is genuinely worth it.

The short version: hats, ride, crash, in that order of importance. B20 pro lines (used is fine, cymbals do not age) over new budget tiers. Thinner for normal rooms, bigger and heavier only if you need projection. Your hi-hats and ride are your voice; spend there.

Common questions

What cymbals does a beginner actually need?
Three pieces: a pair of hi-hats (14 inch is standard), one crash (16 or 18 inch), and one ride (20 inch is standard). That covers timekeeping and accents for essentially all music. The brand starter packs that bundle exactly this trio exist because it is the right minimum set.
What is the difference between B20 and B8 cymbals?
The bronze alloy. B20 (80 percent copper, 20 percent tin) is the traditional cymbal bronze used in most professional lines; it tends toward complex, rich sound. B8 (8 percent tin) is cheaper to work and brighter and more focused, common in budget and intermediate lines. Alloy is not destiny, good B8 cymbals exist, but the pro lines are overwhelmingly B20.
Why are cymbals so expensive?
A professional cymbal is a precision bronze casting or sheet that is rolled, hammered, and lathed, often with substantial handwork, by one of a handful of companies. Unlike drums, the cymbal IS the sound; there are no heads to swap. The good news: cymbals last decades when not abused, and the used market is deep.
Can you mix cymbal brands?
Yes, and most working drummers do. There is no compatibility issue, only taste. A common approach is choosing hi-hats and ride first (they define your sound most, since you play them most) and then auditioning crashes from anywhere that complement them.

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